Cheap Chic, The Austere Fashion Reality

I saw the phrase “Nouveux Poor” recently in a fashion publication which made me smile with the irony that from the world of excess and fantasy where over the top is the norm, the fashion industry have eventually realised that at the moment everything in front of those rose tinted spectacles it wears, is actually pretty grey.

Though from the world of fantasy and  indulgence, where women the world over dip into every so often (some more than others) to buy that handbag or those shoes which in turn helps those flagging spirits, is it a good thing that the fashion industry all of a sudden has a bout of austerity too?

The recent catwalk shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris of the major fashion houses all seem to have had a touch of hard ship and austerity  about them with the term “sombre chic” been used to describe some, though maybe from a cynical point of view, perhaps its a reflection of their recent balance sheets that have driven the changes.

Though as the world’s economies are going through a fundamental re-balancing, we as canny shoppers are actually driving those changes, this was illustrated recently in the UK where statistics show in the final quarter of 2008, the amount of proportionate household savings had for the first time since 2006 risen to 5%, this means that in times of hard ship, we repay debt, we save more and we budget.

Calgary Avansino executive fashion editor of British Vogue states ” Style doesn’t have to suffer, It has nothing to do with how much money you spend. Women just have to be more creative about finding smart buys and styling them well.”

In times of plenty we have become complacent, and the era of “fast fashion” is perhaps behind us for a while.  However, we can learn from the past that these dark austere days are probably what drives the imagination and ambition of many who are just starting out, or through unfortunate circumstances rally to find that something different.

Cast your minds back to the early 1970′s if you can, and the bad days of the 3 day weeks, winter of discontent with power cuts, and British Leyland always on strike? From the discontent rose punk rock in the mid 70′s and then New wave later on, there was an cultural explosion and fashion c-change, where a young rebellious fashion designer called Vivienne Westwood came to prominence through her association with The Sex Pistols and the outrageous home made punk fashion; Now some thirty years later Vivienne is now fashion Establishment.

Going back further to the 1930′s depression, an edition of Harpers Bizarre advises “Keep a dash of lipstick on the stiff upper lip, and give up the fatal vice of cheap clothes!”

The message is that rather than looking for the route of least resistance and the cheapest ready to wear fashions, why not think about your purchases a little more strategically, plan your credit card spending, and complement those clothes you’ve got already got lurking in the back of the wardrobe.

Continuous “drops” the term used by the high street shops for regular new products has essentially seen the death of seasonal clothes with the scramble for new products on a virtually weekly basis at the expense of your bulging wardrobe, or your parched wallet.

“People are fed up with disposable stuff,” reckons Amanda Slader, chief fashion adviser at John Lewis. “They’re looking for items that will last a whole season and rejuvenate existing bits. Some may say frugal isn’t sexy, but it’s just different from what we’ve got used to.”

Slader heads up the John Lewis “Fash-efficiency classes” and has over 2000 clients who come to John Lewis under no obligation to buy, and receive practical advise on credit-crunch style shopping, Slader continues, “We take a look at what they already have and could be making use of, and on the back of that, try to identify one or two key pieces that will really get their look on-trend and up to date. We don’t work on commission, so we’re not under pressure to make people spend money.”

Even British Vogue has got in on the act as it has relaunched its cult “More Dash Than Cash” section. “People are getting smarter about every penny,” states Calgary Avansino, “so what could be better than learning the tricks of the trade? Getting quality catwalk looks at high-street prices is exactly what people are craving right now.” Vogue has marked a change in direction for the magazine to reflect the changing times and has combined shopping suggestions and styling tips, it not what you can get any more, so much as what you can do with it that counts.

recognition should be given to Harriet Walker for her article in the Independent Sat 28th March 2009.

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